Wiring Methods

[Bam Bam Billy]

I'm a licensed electrician and I have had direct experience in wiring everything from high-rise office buildings to my son's toy swimming frog. My mentor in the electrical trade had a comment that sums electrical wiring up I believe. He had 30+ years of experience when i was just getting my ears wet and I mentioned to him that he must know everything there is to know about electricity. "Son, I been doin this for 31 years now and I only know what I have learned in 31 years. Come see me after 60 years and I expect I'll know that much more." I think there is a wisdom in those words that can apply to much of life but certainly it can apply to electical wiring, too.
We all have different methods and hints that may collectively help the lot of us in becoming more proficient and efficient. So I got to thinking maybe we could use this discussion as a place to seek ideas, experiences and assistance as it applies to wiring bikes from our peers, friends and fellow BoogeyBoarders.. And I'll throw the first pitch to swing at...
Until recently, I have been a firm believer in the solder and heat shrink method of splicing. I have a modified stock Dyna that I have completely rewired using that method. That is until this winter, when due to space constrains for the iron, I used crimped butt splices and heat shrink just as Scott shows on the installtion video. I expected to have to re-crimp them by now - I ride hard and I ride lots and my bike shakes, rattles and rolls. But thus far not a single faillure on a crimped splice. Ceratinly they are quicker and easier to splice with as opposed to a soldering iron and solder, but are they dependable on today's American iron bikes with their open air cleaners to maximize input for added torque but then also maximizing vibration?

[Scott Maentz]

Christine & I have owned this company for 6 years and have lit literally thousands of bikes using butt connectors and heat shrink tubing for our wire connections. Our heat shrink is lined with adhesive, which is key. We always cover the butt connector with heat shrink tubing to seal the connection from the elements. In all this time I can count on one hand the connections that have come loose or failed, and these occurances were always due to human error.

If you get a good crimp on the wires and cover the connector with heat shrink tubing you will never have a problem with the connection. In my opinion, soldering is much more prone to failure or error. Solder joints can crack and hot solder could drip on a new paint job if the installer isn't paying attention. Also, it slows down the installation with an unnecessary procedure. Bottom line: there is no need to use solder on our wiring connections.

[SHILO]

The other side. Scott makes a GREAT point, human error. Most people with out training and "practice" will find some way to screw up a soldered connection, no doubt. Being a master Nissan & Toyota tech and having raced SCCA & ASA there is nothing that beats a properly soldered connection for durability, "resistance" & vibration. I am some what new as a Boogey dealer and I have applied my teaching & learning to the "ART" of LED lighting. Scott has been mentoring me in my efforts (nothing like 2 old alpha mutts growling at each other) along with "master installer" Steve, I have concluded grrrrrrrr that the butt connector, heat shrink method is far more applicable and suitable to doing a proper Boogey Light installation. In the heat of battle nothing beats the ease of using the butt connector-heat shrink method versus time lost in properly tinning & soldering a connection.
See, old mutt's can learn new tricks!

[Scott Maentz]

There's only room for 1 master here, and that's Andyman! You're picking it up quickly though Shilo. :-)

[Bam Bam Billy]

Well, I must admit that I am a believer. I have even gone so far as to try to pull apart a crimped connection using a butt splice vs. a soldered connection and I found that it was easier to pull the solder apart. I think the key is to use a properly sized crimping tool for the application as well. I have been double crimping each end of the butt splices for added durability also. This methiod was taught to me while crimping ground sleeves on residential wiring outlets and it seems to work well with the butt splice application also. Love to hear your thoughts on that.
Another thing that I have noted when dealing with motorcycle wiring is the obvious space issue under the seat. If you are dealing with a bike that has a rats nest of sirens and add-ons it can be hectic getting to the battery and once you do, there's sometimes already 4 or more wires attached to both positive and negative terminals. I've found it sometimes ppays to combine these wires for ease of reinstallig the battery. I have even used T-tap connections which crimp down onto an exisiting wire anywhere along it's length and allow you to tap of with an additional wire. Any thoughts?

[Andy D.]

I've been saiding this for decades... so who hear PR from New York...

[Scott Maentz]

Andy, you just don't get no respect!